Authors: ANNA EDLER, RYAN KUNKLER, CASEY WEBB, JACOB MANNING, MARCUS M LAWRENCE
Mentors: Marcus Lawrence
Insitution: Southern Utah University
Climbing (sport and bouldering) has become a very popular hobby for people all over the globe.
Now that climbing is an Olympic sport the need for understanding best training practices through evidence, not anecdotal experience, has grown. Using the International Rock Climbing Research Association (IRCRA) individual grading scale based on route completion difficulty,
some research has shown that upper limb strength is important for individuals to progress from recreational/intermediate to more advanced/elite levels. However, many studies use non-sport
specific measurements (i.e., hand dynamometer versus a finger climbing hold) and none have assessed rate of force development (RFD) or lower body strength contributions. PURPOSE: To test the hypothesis that compared to recreational/intermediate climbers advanced climbers would have greater dominant and non-dominant upper-body strength and finger RFD as well as lower body compound strength. METHODS: Nineteen subjects (n=8 female and n=11 male;
age: 24.7±7.5 yrs; height: 177.6±7.8 cm; mass: 76.0±14.9 kg; IRCRA Sport Grade: 14.1±6.7; n=10 intermediate, n=9 advanced) completed this study. During a single session, following a standardized 3-5 min. warm-up all participants dominant and non-dominant finger strength and
RFD (using a Tindeq dynamometer load cell attached via static rope to a 20mm edge) as well as shoulder strength (using the same Tindeq load cell with a static rope attached to an olympic ring), and lower-body compound strength (isometric mid-thigh pull using G-strength
dynamometer load cell attached to a straight bar with a static rope) were assessed. Three trials were done on each measurement with 1 min. between trials and 3-5 min. between tests. Unpaired t-tests determined differences, p<0.05. RESULTS: Across every measurement
advanced climbers had significantly (p<0.05) higher values for absolute and relative (normalized to body weight, BW) measurements. As absolute and non-dominant results were similar we only
report dominant relative results, where appropriate. Indeed, compared to intermediate climbers advanced climbers had significantly higher relative dominant finger RFD (9.9±3.7 vs 20.8±9.4
N/s*BW -1 ), finger strength (0.5±0.1 vs 0.7±0.3 kg/BW), shoulder strength (0.7±0.2 vs 0.9±0.2 kg/BW), as well as relative compound strength (1.8±0.4 vs 2.6±0.7 kg/BW, respectively). CONCLUSION: Advanced climbers have larger absolute and relative RFD in their fingers,
stronger dominant and non-dominant fingers and shoulders, as well as stronger lower body compound strength. Thus, individuals looking to progress from recreational/intermediate climbing grades to advanced/elite should focus on improving total body absolute and relative strength as well as finger RFD.